Dec 1, 2016

The Tuscany Region of Italy



Ten years ago, I got my first glimpse of the Tuscan countryside while traveling from Milan to Florence. I was a college student at the time and in the country for educational purposes. A December visit didn't leave me with beautiful memories of abundant vineyards at harvest season given the bleak landscape and frigid temperatures. However, December landscape aside, the history, architecture, and wine make this area pretty spectacular.

Fast forward to present day and I found myself wanting to venture back here with my family. I knew there were parts of the area that I didn't fully see or appreciate ten years prior. This time around there were so many things I wanted to do differently. Such as, stay at a villa set amongst the vineyards and olive trees or wander around the small villages taking as much time as needed or have locals cook an authentic meal for us. And, the perk of this trip were the additional travel companions, Mom and Mark.

We picked up our rental car at the airport and drove to the town of Vinci, home of Leonardo da Vinci. Our car engine revved as it climbed a steep gravel road leading to the villa. The moon lended light in the dark of midnight for our arrival. Morning eventually came and brought much surprise as we awoke to see the landscape surrounding the property. A short walk through the garden made way to an outdoor terrace on a hillside overlooking acres of vineyards. Each morning we ventured to this serene spot for coffee and conversations. As mentioned earlier, my biggest wish of this trip was to have locals cook an authentic meal for us. With much research and many email messages later, I had successfully reserved this service for the second evening of our trip. Two Italian women arrived with baskets overflowing of fresh ingredients. They washed up, immediately started cooking, and moved around the unfamiliar kitchen with ease. They had so much passion for the local produce and were eager to show us just how wonderful it was. I stood in the kitchen, wine in hand, hanging onto every word as they told me all about their culture and cuisine. The food was so delicious and unforgettable. 

While the villa was our peaceful haven, we did spend many hours away from it to mosey through Florence, Pisa, San Gimignano, Vinci, Lucca, and Viarregio. Each destination was unique in its own right and the immense historical, cultural, and artistic heritage of this region provided endless opportunities to explore, learn, and savor. Italy has stolen our hearts once again.

Travel Notes

Accommodations

Villa Betta Another awesome experience with an Airbnb rental. The villa was a mix of rustic/modern with a secluded backyard complete with a hot tub. It was centrally located to Florence, Pisa, Lucca, San Gimignano, and Siena... just to name a few places. Who doesn't love wine and chocolate? The property manager greeted us with both, a really nice touch. The house came stocked with wines from a winery down the road, olive oil, and honey; all available for a small price per item. 

In Home Chef
Chef In Tuscany is ran by owner Graziella and her small staff of chefs. They offer in-home chefs, wine tastings, and cooking lessons. There are select menus to choose from and are available for viewing on the website. Pricing came to 60 euros per adult and included 2 bottles of wine, a five course meal, and limoncello. Factor in the experience if you have reservations about this price. It was especially nice to have such high quality service and food all in the comforts of the villa. Let's be real, I wouldn't want our toddler in a fancy restaurant sitting through a five course meal so this option was perfect for us.

Literature
With so many sights to see, it can be overwhelming to know what to see or where to go. I've purchased travel books in the past but found a great selection at my local library. The Tuscany region travel book came with us for the trip and was extremely helpful to reference while we were out and about.

Florence
This is the capital of the Tuscany Region and a must-see city. We flew in and out of Florence and rented a car for the duration of our trip. We had an evening flight home and spent the afternoon in Florence to peek around and have lunch here before our return flight. This is no way enough time in the city but since I had been here years prior and had seen all of the sights, it was okay for me to not spend a few days. We had a great lunch at Casa Del Vin Santo where we watched Mario make pizzas. He was a skilled pizza artist and quite entertaining. Isn't it a breath of fresh air to watch someone love their job and take pride in it? Afterwards we stopped in a gelato cafe and ordered 2 cups of gelato at the tune of 20 euros. Thankfully they were heaping, but still.... All over Europe I have never paid more than 1.50 for a scoop of gelato. With no prices listed, I just assumed it was the same price. wrong. Buyers beware, ask in advance!

Pisa

As recommended by a friend, we were in and out of Pisa just long enough to see the leaning tower with our own eyes. It's magnificent to see and to read the history and restoration process of the tower. I'm glad we stopped there but after being in the quaint hills of Vinci, the crowds were a bit much.

San Gimignano
We loved this walled medieval town that's known for its towers. There are wonderful shops lined along the street selling everything from wild boar salami, vernaccia wine, olive wood cutting boards, pinocchio figurines, and beautiful linens. Ricca Pizza had some of the best pizza we've ever had. We circled back at the end of the day to order a large one to take along with us before departing this gem of a town.

Vinci

Since our villa sat above the hills of Vinci, we were too close not to take the time to walk through the birthplace of Leonardo and spend time at the Museo Leonardiano.

Lucca

This city has Renaissance walls that encircle its historic center. You will see people walking or riding bikes along the top of the ancient tree-lined walls. Make your way to the Piazza dell'Anfiteatro, once an amphitheater during Roman times. Today, take a seat at one of the many restaurants located in this space.


Itinerary- 5 days and 4 nights

  • Day 1
    • Evening flight from Stuttgart to Florence
    • Pick up car reservation and drive to villa in Vinci
    • Late arrival means straight to bed
  • Day 2
    • Grocery shopping for the villa
    • Set up a game plan for day 3 and 4
    • Walk through the vineyards near the property 
    • In home private chef service for dinner 
  • Day 3
    • Breakfast at villa 
    • Drive to San Gimignano (30 minutes) 
    • Roam the medieval streets and shop along the way
    • Stop for a slice of pizza at Riccapizza 
    • Lunch at Bar La Cisterna (average food)
    • Drive back to villa
    • Dinner at villa 
  • Day 4 
    • Breakfast at villa 
    • Drive to Pisa 
    • Leaning Tower / Piazza de Miracoli / Duomo
    • Drive to Lucca 
    • Lunch in the Piazza dell'Anfiteatro 
    • Walk the walls of Lucca 
    • Drive to coastal town Viareggio 
    • Pit stop in Viareggio and check out the beaches
    • Drive back to villa 
    • Dinner at villa 
  • Day 5 
    • Pack and check-out
    • Drive to Vinci
    • Leonardo's birthplace 
    • Museo Leonardiano 
    • Drive to Florence 
    • Piazzale Michelangelo
    • Piazza del Duomo 
    • Piazza della Signoria 
    • Palazzo Pitti
    • Browse Mercado Centrale 
    • Lunch at Casa Del Vin Santo 
    • Gelato!
    • Drive to the airport and depart beautiful Tuscany 













































Nov 21, 2016

Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany



A four day weekend took us to the Bavarian Region of Germany to unwind from our hectic life and reconnect as a family. The Bavarian Region is home to some wildly beautiful scenery and its mountainous terrain is comparable to that of Colorado. Which, of course, still feels like home to us and a place that we sincerely miss. The destination we were basing ourselves out of was Garmisch-Partenkirchen, an idyllic town nestled at the foot of the Zugspitze, Germany's highest peak.

Our weekend was going to be one of outdoor adventure mixed with naps. We had six specific points of interest we hoped to see, 1. Fairytale and animal park for Brecken's enjoyment 2. Ettal Abbey 3. Zugspitze 4. Lake Eibsee 5. Partnach Gorge 6. Oberammergau Alpine Coaster. Upon entering the fairytale land, it felt as if we were launched into the past. Children rode ponies and a miniature train, viewed animals ranging from peacocks and sheep to bunnies and turtles, peeked into fairytale displays, scaled wooden playground sets, and drove bumper cars. It was simple and sweet. As we left the park, we decided to drive directly to the Ettal Abbey, an active monastery with beautiful Baroque style art and architecture. This monastery is unique in the fact that the monks operate their own brewery and distillery. Shocking right? These monks know what they are doing because they've been successfully brewing beer for the last 400 years!

The next day we purchased tickets for the Zugspitze at our hotel and departed early to beat the crowds. A cable car took us from the base to the top of the mountain. Once at the top, we gazed at mountain peaks from four different countries with a panoramic view like no other. Another short cable car ride gained us access to the glacier area where Brecken and Alex took a ride on a little sled. My shoes had zero tread so I didn't even attempt sledding down for fear I wouldn't be able to walk back up the hill! We shared hot chocolate and soft pretzels at a picnic table in the sun while we waited for the train to transport us down the hill to Lake Eibsee. Once at the Eibsee, we ate a German lunch on a patio overlooking the water and took a walk around the shoreline. The water sparkled various shades of green and blue as sun rays beamed down on its surface. Our nature lovers day ended at the Partnach Gorge. We walked an elevated path along the water, secured by a double rope railing. The narrow path weaved in and out of dark, wet caves, making us duck and dodge along the way. The water roared loudly as it made its way through the canyon. Waterfalls cascaded down the mountainside and the mist blew on our faces. Brecken reached his hands up in the air to catch the droplets of water dripping from the rocks and chuckled each time one landed on his hands.

The final must-do on our trip to this region was riding an Alpine coaster. Children under the age of three are not permitted to ride the coasters. Now, let me tell you, I don't enjoy lying and I am not good at it. It pains me to do so and can be seen written all over my face. I desperately wanted B to ride the coaster with us so we didn't have to take turns. I knew safety wise he would be ok since he would be on a seat between Alex and secured with a belt. With that being said, I fibbed to the lady at the desk and told her I needed a ticket for two adults and one child. She spoke to me in German telling me that she didn't think he appeared to be three. I quickly responded saying he definitely was and that he's just small for his age. The blankie and thumb sucking don't help him. She gave me the tickets and off we went. As we rode the ski lift to the top, my conscience kept nagging at me. Alex could tell I felt anxious and told me the polizei were probably waiting for us at the top to escort my lying ass back to the parking lot. The coasters were SO much fun, albeit the woman ahead of me was riding her brake too much, causing us all to forgo a wild ride with more speed. Brecken loved riding the coaster with Alex and seeing his excitement made me happy that I was able to weasel his way onto the ride!

Travel Notes

Accommodations

Edelweiss Lodge and Resort This is an American resort located on the military base in Garmisch and available to military members stationed or TDY in Europe. On our previous trip to Garmisch, Alex and I stayed at a great German hotel downtown. We decided to try out this resort since the rates were cheaper than those on the economy during the month of August. The resort was great in every aspect and we really loved eating pizza, wings, nachos, and onion rings while watching the Olympics on big screen tv's in the restaurant pub.

Children's Fairytale Park
Shongauer Animal and Fairytale Park

Ettal Abbey
Abbey website

Zugspitze

Zugspitze website
Access this website to find information regarding your visit to the Zugspitze and purchase tickets.

Partnach Gorge

Summer hours: 8:00-18:00
Winter hours: 9:00-17:00
Fees: Adults - 4 EUR, Children and Adolescents- 2.50 EUR
Strollers are not permitted for safety purposes. Note to mamas and papas: bring a carrier!
To find the Gorge, input Olympia-Skistadion (Olympic Ski Stadium) into your GPS. Parking is available at the stadium and from there you will walk 25 minutes on flat pavement before reaching the gorge entrance. You can also take a horse drawn carriage from the parking lot to the gorge.

Alpine Coaster

Kolbensattel Alpine Coaster
Check out this website to view videos of the coasters and find information on pricing and hours of operation. This location also has mountain biking, hiking, and playgrounds.


Itinerary- 4 days and 3 nights

  • Day 1
    • Depart Stuttgart by 9:00am and arrive at Shongauer Animal and Fairytale Park by 11:30am
    • Playtime at park for 1.5 hours 
    • Drive to Ettal Abbey (30 minute drive) 
    • Tour Abbey and purchase items at gift store 
    • Drive to Garmisch (20 minutes) 
    • Check-in at resort and relax
    • Dinner at resort 
  • Day 2
    • Breakfast at resort 
    • Drive to Zugspitze (20 minutes) 
    • Take Funicular up to the peak
    • Sled on the glacier 
    • Train ride down the mountain
    • Walk to Lake Eibsee ( 5 minute walk from parking lot) 
    • Lunch at Lake Eibsee Pavillon (really great food!)
    • Walk around the lake
    • Drive to Partnach Gorge (30 minutes) 
    • Hike through the Gorge 
    • Drive back to resort
    • Dinner at resort 
  • Day 3
    • Breakfast at resort 
    • Drive to Oberammergau (25 minutes) 
    • Ride Kolben chair lift to summit
    • Biergarten and Playground
    • Ride the Alpine Coaster
    • Roam around downtown Garmisch
    • Dinner at the Resort (Couldn't resist the American bar food for the third night)
  • Day 4 
    • Check-out and travel day
























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